December 24, 2009 | 
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The season of giving – how St. Nicholas became Santa Claus
It’s been a long journey from St. Nicholas, who showed his devotion to God in extraordinary kindness and generosity to those in need, to America’s jolly Santa Claus who brings gifts to children on Christmas.
While little is known of his life other than he was Greek and a fourth-century bishop of Myra in southern Turkey, the story of St. Nicholas has an epic quality which has resonated around the world and through the ages his is due to his caring and dedicated nature bringing help to others and giving gifts to those in greatest need while not expecting anything in return.
Before the Reformation in the 16th century, St. Nicholas had more dedications to him in the world than any other saint, including the first landing spot of Christopher Columbus in the New World. During the counter-reformation, there was an attempt to erase him from all knowledge, yet he lived on around the world with various customs, including gifts of food and images such as Kris Kringle.
Santa Claus appears to be a New World invention brought to life by residents of New York who founded the New York Historical Society in 1804, which had St. Nicholas as patron saint of both city and society. Washington Irving, a member of the group, published a satirical fictitious history of New York with references to a jolly St. Nicholas character.
The holidays of the early 1800s in New York were characterized by workers who had more leisure after harvest and spent much of the time drunk and roaming the streets in a threatening fashion. As a new understanding and interest in children and family life began to take place, it was fitting to give St. Nicholas new attributes.
At the same time, a new book, “The Children’s Friend,” was published in 1821 showing a “Sante Claus” arriving from the north in a sleigh with one flying reindeer. The poem, “A Visit from St. Nicholas,” known today as “‘Twas the Night before Christmas,” debuted in 1822. Over the years, with the help of Macy’s and Coca-Cola Co. in the early part of the 20th century, the current image of a rotund, jolly grandfatherly persona who brings gifts to all has overcome the image of St. Nicholas who was devoted to kindness. Peeling back all the additions, however, he is still the bishop of old who represents true giving and authenticity to others.
There is growing interest in reclaiming the original saint in the United States to help restore a spiritual dimension to this festive time. For indeed, St. Nicholas, lover of the poor and patron saint of children, is a model of how we desire to live.
Remembering the true meaning of this season as a way to celebrate our heritage and calling upon St. Nicholas as a model for the holiday can help to restore balance in the midst of materialism and stress.
On the Trails with Epi
Sonoma Community Center Christmas Day Dinner
True to the nature of giving, the Sonoma Community Center has been serving a free holiday feast to the community for decades. This year, the dinner is being orchestrated by Chef Dawn Empson, a member of the Faith Presbyterian Church who returns for a second year to recreate the success of the past.
Tim Christenson, pastor of the church, credits several additional people for being instrumental in planning and organizing the dinner, including Greg Silvi, a former Director for Gourmet magazine in San Francisco, and Susan Eikenbary, who is responsible for coordinating the 25 volunteers needed for preparation, serving, and clean-up of the event.
Last year, Epi, along with approximately 350 others attended this event, which is a model for bringing community members together and where strangers become neighbors. This year, over 100 pounds of New York Prime Strip have been donated by Whole Foods while Oak Hill Farm and Green String Farm have donated fresh produce for the meal. Nonalcoholic beverages will be available and guests are welcome to bring wine to share.
Some others who have donated include Chef Justin Ederett, Executive Chef of El Dorado Kitchen and Janine Saldo of Carneros Bistro at the Lodge Sonoma, who will be opening their kitchens and helping with prep work for the event. Elaine Bell Catering donates all trays, plates, utensils, and glassware. Without the sponsors and volunteers, it doesn’t happen.
If interested in volunteering or donating to this event, contact the Sonoma Community Center, 707.938.4626, ext. 1 or sonomacommunitycenter.org. The office is open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. See you on Dec. 25 at the Sonoma Community Center.
The Best of the Sonoma Valley Experience
restaurants and wineries
Celebrate New Year’s Eve at one of the following venues in Sonoma this next week:
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa
Enjoy complimentary sparkling wine tasting 4:30 to 5:30 pm., a seven-course prix-fix dinner, Steve Rubardt Jazz Trio from 4:30 to 5:30 p.m. and dancing with Top Cat Dance Band from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. $250 per person includes a bottle of Domaine Carneros Sparkling Wine. 100 Boyes Blvd., Sonoma, 707.938.9000, Fairmont.com/sonoma
The Lodge at Sonoma New Year’s Eve Jazz on Broadway
Celebrate New Year’s Eve with a prix fixe dinner from 5:30 to 11 p.m. which includes complimentary cover charge for Jazz on Broadway from 9:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Cost is $85 a person, $125 with wine. In the gallery, The Dana Land Quartet will be playing. $25 per person includes midnight champagne toast and party favors. 1325 Broadway, Sonoma, 707.935.6600, thelodgeatsonoma.com
Depot Hotel New Year’s Eve
Dinner includes Dungeness crab and corn bisque soup; baby winter lettuces with grapefruit, shaved fennel and pecorino cheese; prime rib eye of beef with potato gratin and sauce bordelaise; grilled salmon with artichokes, leeks, olives, and truffle-tomato vinaigrette; veal piccata with white wine, capers, and lemon; fruitti di mare day-boat scallops and rock shrimp with mushrooms; sherry, and cream, and butternut squash ravioli with Swiss chard and sauce fonduta. Desserts include tiramisu, white cheesecake with raspberry sauce, chocolate decadence with caramel and toffee, and almond tart with Seville orange sauce. All for only $55 for adults, $25 for children five to 12 years. Wine, tax, and gratuity are additional. Open from 5 with the last seating at 9 p.m. Call for reservations: 707.938.2930 or make a reservation at depothotel.com. 241 First St. W., Sonoma
Meritage Martini Oyster Bar & Grille: New Year’s Eve Menu
Ring in the New Year with a bubble, oyster, and caviar lounge showcasing Gloria Ferrer sparkling wines, specialty sparkling cocktails and chef pairings with local oysters and Tsar Nicoloui caviar as Sonoma vocalist Stan Pappas performs his classic Sinatra repertoire. Dinner includes the regular a la carte menu or a special tasting menu including Chef Carlo’s National Beef Cook-off winning dish of mustard and lavender-encrusted rib eye steak smoked over French Oak barrel wine staves. Five-course tasting menu $65 includes glass of champagne. 165 W. Napa St., Sonoma 707.938.9430, sonomameritage.com
Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack New Year’s Eve Celebration – Thursday, Dec. 31, 5 p.m.
Emmy’s has been closed this week for Christmas and will reopen on Dec. 26 at 5 p.m. A surprise New Year’s Eve celebration is being planned. Check the Web site for details: emmysspaghettishack.com
Chateau St. Jean Holiday Celebration – Saturday, Dec. 26 to Thursday Dec. 31, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Toast family, friendship, and the good life while shopping for bargains at the weeklong celebration. Discounts on wine and merchandise. $10 per person, $15 reserve wine tasting. 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 707.833.4134, chateaustjean.com
The Cave Wine Bar will be closed for New Year’s Eve and will be open on New Year’s Day starting at 5 p.m. with half-priced sparklers all evening and food features such as Hell’s Quiche and Spicy Baked Prawns at half-price. 524 Broadway, Sonoma, 707.287.8705.
Up & Down the Valley
organization events
Sebastiani Theatre Holiday Open House – Saturday, Dec. 26, 1 to 3 p.m.
The Sebastiani Theatre Foundation will host a special holiday wonderland Open House, featuring magical holiday decorations by multi-talented Susan Bellach. The theatre will be transformed into a magical winter holiday fairyland, featuring garlands, a glittery, angel-topped, 1,200-light tree and a Santa’s village complete with a miniature Sebastiani Theatre. Stop by for cookies, apple cider, and hot chocolate.
Fifth Annual Vinolivo Celebration – Friday, Feb. 12, 7 p.m.
Billed as a gala celebration and feast for the senses, tickets are now on sale to sip Sonoma Valley’s best wines from over 50 wineries and savor local olives and olive oils while enjoying culinary treats from over 20 of Sonoma’s finest restaurants, caterers, and artisans. Information: 707.935.0803, sonomavalleywine.com
Eating with the Seasons
In search of local, seasonal, and sustainable food
Make a note: the last Farmers Market of 2009 will be next week on Tuesday, Dec. 29.
Mission Olive Preservation Restoration & Education Project volunteers are selling mission olive trees and educating everyone about the history of olives in the Valley.
Jacqueline Aubin is at the market with local, fresh eggs.
Oak Hill Farm will be taking a holiday break and will return to the Friday market on Jan. 15.
Juli Ortiz with Ortiz Brothers has red and green cabbage, Walla Walla onions, radishes, parsley, mint, chard, carrots as well as scallions, leeks, cauliflower, young broccoli, romaine as well as red and green leaf lettuces, carrots, arugula, potatoes, and spinach.
Steve from Mt. Moriah has grapes, pink lady and Fuji apples, and cherry apple juice.
Ed Miller and Anne from Twin Peaks have pomegranates, and three varieties of persimmons: hachiya, fuyu, and amagaki, an old-style Japanese chocolate persimmon; large fan kiwi, Meyer and Eureka lemons, melo-gold grapefruit, and dried fruit including peaches, pears, figs, persimmons, and pomelo which is similar to grapefruit, yet sweeter. Check out their mandarin marmalade, white peach and white nectarine jam. The kiwi tastes like nothing ever seen in a grocery store as they have been ripened on the vine rather than picked green.
Hector Alvarez of Hector’s Honey has all kinds of honey products including fresh bee pollen and candles, as well as squash, tomatoes, garlic, tomatillos, eggs and a great variety of peppers. Fuji and Golden Delicious apples are available as well as fuyu and hachiya persimmons are available.
Gary Peter brings organic cheese offerings each week from Spring Hill Cheese Company which produces over 30 varieties of cheese, as well as sweet creamery butter.
Linda Carniglia of Mini Farm Products will not be at the market this week.
Buchanan Hollow Nut Company has pecans, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, and chocolate covered raisins. Stock up now for the holidays and freeze for freshness all year long. Ask John Buchanan or Michelle DeLucca about quantity discounts for holiday baking. Check out their holiday gift boxes and baskets, holiday nut brittle and persimmons.
Carson Hunter of Carson’s Catch brings Bristol Bay Alaska Sockeye Salmon to the market from the last, largest sockeye run in Alaska. Monterey Bay Aquarium has given salmon from Bristol Bay the cleanest rating of any salmon in the world. Hunter spends early summer catching and flash-freezing the salmon in a 200-year-old cannery nearby.
The Epicurean Connection and McClelland’s Dairy of Petaluma have teamed up at the market offering organic European-style artisan butter and Delice de la Vallee as well as other specialties, including ravioli.
Primavera is at the market with salsa, chips, and tamales in various flavors, including chicken, pork, pumpkin, black bean, green chili, mushroom and spinach and white corn and zucchini. It’s good luck to have tamales at the New Year so pick some up at the Farmers Market, Whole Foods, or Sonoma Market. Just steam for 10 to 15 minutes, eat and enjoy.
M&CP Farms is at the market with all things olives. Tony Howe provides samples and a variety of olive products.
The Hummus Guy, Mohammed Cherif, is part of the Friday market with specialties such as couscous salad, spicy harissa, dolmas, organic baked tofu, falafel, pita, spanakopeta, pita chips and kalamata olives.
End Notes – Inspirational Quote of the Week
May these ancient words be fulfilled this year and every year: “Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men” Luke 2:14
Let us seek the Spirit of St. Nicholas to remind us of the true meaning of giving during this season of love.
I remain, yours truly, Epi Curious, your entrée to the Spirit of Sonoma in the best of food, wine and events in the Valley of the Moon.
Epi Curious, aka Patti Williams, began her career teaching cooking and nutrition classes. Leaving the education field, she has been an entrepreneur and partner in a financial advisory firm, has written a column for a Southern California newspaper on making a home environmentally friendly, and has been host to a series on a community public television station. She brings her love of cooking and a desire to nourish body and soul through the best of food, wine and events in the Sonoma Valley.
Patti can be reached directly at epi@pattiwilliams.com.
From the Recipe Box – Crab season is in full swing just in time for holiday dinners. Here’s a recipe posted online at simplyrecipes.com by Elise. Use a crab which is at least two pounds and have it cracked and cleaned. The stock takes about an hour-and-a-half to cook so plan enough time. Epi has made this a couple of times already this year and it is full-flavored and tasty.
Crab Bisque – Serves 4
Stock ingredients:
4-6 cups crab shells
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 large yellow onion, sliced or chopped
1 carrot, roughly sliced or chopped
1 celery stalk, roughly sliced or chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 sprigs of thyme
Several sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
10-15 whole peppercorns
2 teaspoons salt
Soup ingredients:
2 Tbsp butter, unsalted
1/3 cup shallots, chopped
3/4 cup dry white wine
4 cups of shellfish stock
¼ cup white rice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 ¼ lb or more of cooked crabmeat
1 ¼ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Making the stock
Before making the bisque, you’ll need to make the shellfish stock
1. Break crab shells into smaller pieces by putting in a sealed, thick plastic bag and either rolling with a rolling pin or hitting with a meat hammer to crush. Don’t crush too small. You can even skip this step if you want, if your shell pieces are already well broken up. Put in a large stock pot and cover with an inch of water.
2. Slowly heat the shells in the water on medium high. As soon as little bubbles start to bubbling, reduce the heat to medium. Do not let boil. Maintain the temperature at just below a simmer, where the bubbles just occasionally come up to the surface. Do not stir the shells. Stirring will muddy up the stock. As the bubbles form, a film of foam will develop on the surface. Use a large slotted spoon to skim away this foam. Let the shells cook like this for about an hour; skimming the foam every few minutes, which comes from shells releasing impurities as their temperature increases.
3. Put the thyme, bay leaves, and parsley in cheese cloth. Secure with kitchen string to make a bouquet garni.
4. Once the stock has stopped releasing foam, you can add the wine, onions, carrots, celery, tomato paste, herb bouquet garni, and peppercorns. Bring to a low simmer and reduce heat so that the stock continues to simmer, but not boil, for 30 minutes. If more foam comes to the surface, skim it off. Add salt and remove from heat.
5. Dampen a few layers of cheesecloth and place over a large, fine mesh strainer, over a large pot or bowl. Pour the stock into the strainer. Discard the solids. Either use the stock right away, or cool for future use. If not used in a couple of days, freeze, leaving some head room at the top of your freezer container for the liquid to expand as it freezes.
Makes 2-3 quarts. Reserve 4 cups for the crab bisque, refrigerate or freeze the rest.
Making the bisque
1. In a large, 4 or 6 quart saucepan, melt butter on medium heat, add shallots and cook gently until translucent, about 5 minutes.
2. Add wine, stock, white rice, and tomato paste. Raise the heat and bring to a simmer; reduce heat to a simmer until rice is completely cooked, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool for several minutes.
3. Add about two thirds of the crab meat to the soup. Working in batches, ladle the soup into a blender or use an immersion blender to purée until completely smooth. Return puréed soup back to soup pan.
4. Add cream and gently heat soup until it is hot enough for serving. Add the remaining one third of the crab meat. Add salt and cayenne pepper to taste, about ½ teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon cayenne.
