April 1, 2010 | 
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A way of life – creating community through food
This last weekend there were two events which symbolize the mystique of living in the virtual abundance of Sonoma. On Saturday, the Rotary Club of Sonoma unveiled the Sonoma Community Center’s kitchen which their pledge helped build. On Sunday Frances Mayes, author of “Under the Tuscan Sun,” showcased her new book, “Every Day in Tuscany,” to a sold-out crowd at Jacuzzi Family Winery.
The Sonoma Community Center gathering feasted on a spaghetti-and-meatball dinner courtesy of Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante and Gaetano Patrinostro and his wife Kimberley Strain-Patrinostro, who officiated over the very Italian meal. The evening was a simple celebration, one of those which happens frequently and seems to be an every day sort of occurrence here. As Epi conversed with her tablemates and sat listening to the voices in the room, there was a sense of unity as if we all were on the same life mission and spent our time acknowledging and celebrating accomplishments. It was seemingly “no big deal,” yet it is …
When Mayes talks about her last two decades in Tuscany renovating two old houses and eating and drinking the Italian way, she speaks about a sense of place, of what’s just beneath the surface, and the culture of celebrating the every day. She could be talking about Sonoma, with its similar Mediterranean environment and awareness of itself as a rural food and wine mecca.
The whole is greater than the parts here as it is Italy. There is something about food which speaks of the simple and complex, family and friends, and the qualities of existence. After water, food is a requisite for life, yet more than just sustenance, it is a requirement for friendship, love, and the sense of belonging we call community.
Bookmark Epi’s Web site, pattiwilliams.com and keep up on local events, including what’s available at the weekly Farmers Markets.
On the Trails with Epi
Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante
A Sicilian by birth, Gaetano Patrinostro, chef and co-owner with his wife Kimberley Strain-Patrinostro of Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante, started cooking at home and working at his uncle’s restaurant when he was nine. Leaving home at 13 to work as an apprentice in the hotel trade, Patrinostro worked his way from a dish washer to executive chef in kitchens across Europe and the United States, honing his skills and his passion for Italian cuisine.
Patrinostro has cooked in well-known internationally recognized restaurants, including the Palace Hotel in San Moritz, Switzerland, aboard a Viking Cruise Line, at Zola in Washington D.C., Pappagalo’s in New York, Rex in Los Angeles, and Valentino’s in Hollywood. He has cooked for luminaries including Liberace, Stevie Wonder, Tina Sinatra, Henry Kissinger, Dino De Laurentiis, and the Shah of Persia.
Loving California for its resemblance to Italy in terms of climate and food, Patrinostro eventually settled in San Rafael and worked at Salute Restaurant where he met his wife. Opening Mama Tanino’s Ristorante showcases his Italian roots with authentic cuisine using fresh, local products. All of the food is authentic Italian from the original region; the pesto is from Genoa, the Bolognese sauce from Bologna. The breads are homemade as are the desserts. Typical of Italians, he has an old-fashioned passion for food.
There is an early dinner special Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. for $15. Epi had dinner at Mamma Tanino’s recently and Patrinostro’s love of cooking and attention to detail shows through in the authentic taste of the dishes. When you talk with him there’s the, “Ciao, grazie,” with a wave when you leave. The appropriate answer is, “Prego.” This little bit of distant Italy here in Sonoma gives a lift to the senses.
Mamma Tanino’s Ristorante, 500 W. Napa St., Sonoma, 933.8826, mammataninos.com
The Best of the Sonoma Valley Experience
restaurants and wineries
Larson Family Winery Easter Egg Hunt – Sunday, April 4, beginning at noon.
Weather permitting, pack a picnic and enjoy Bocce Ball, cowboy golf and expansive vineyard views, with a face-painting artist from 12:30 p.m. to 2 p.m. Wine pouring will include the newly released rosé and music will be EZ Kewl, Sonoma’s own five-piece musical group. 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma 938.3031 ext. 20, larsonfamilywinery.com
Wineries Open Easter Sunday
hours and addresses
B.R. Cohn Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 800.330.4064
Buena Vista Carneros Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 265.1472
The Cellar Door, 11a.m. to 6 p.m., 1395 Broadway, Sonoma, 938.1472
Charles Creek Vineyards, 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., 483 First St. W., Sonoma, 938.4466
Cline Cellars, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 935.3848
Homewood Winery, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., 23120 Burndale Road, Sonoma, 996.6353
Jacuzzi Family Winery, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., 24724 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 931.7500
Kaz Vineyard & Winery, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., 233 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, 833.2536
Larson Family Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma, 938.3031
Ledson Winery and Vineyards, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 7335 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833.2330,
Mayo Family Winery, 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., 13101 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 938.9401,
Nicholson Ranch Winery, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., 4200 Napa Road, Sonoma,938.8822
Paradise Ridge Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 8860 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 282.9020
Schug Carneros Estate Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 966.9365
Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 389 Fourth St. E, Sonoma, 933.9365
Sonoma Enoteca, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., 35 E Napa St, Sonoma, 935.1200
Viansa Winery, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 25200 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800.996.4740
VJB Cellars, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., 9077 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, 833.2300
Restaurants Open Easter Sunday
hours and addresses.
Call to for information on special Easter brunch or dinner menus and for reservations.
Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar, Brunch, Lunch and Dinner, 931.2042
Depot Restaurant, Brunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:10 p.m. and Dinner 4 p.m. to 10 p.m., 938.2980.
El Dorado Kitchen, Brunch and Dinner, 996.3030
estate, Brunch & Dinner, 933.3663
Garden Court Cafe, Brunch and Lunch, 935.1565
the girl & the fig, .Brunch and Dinner, 938.3634
Glen Ellen Inn Oyster Grill & Martini Bar, Brunch and Dinner, 996.6409
Ledson Harmony Lounge, Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., 996.9779
Maya Restaurant, Lunch and Dinner, 935.3500
Meritage Martini Oyster Bar & Grille, Lunch and Dinner, 938.9430
Murphy’s Irish Pub, Lunch, Dinner and Drinks, 935.0660
Rin’s Thai Restaurant, Lunch and Dinner, 938.1462
Saddles Steakhouse at MacArthur Place Inn & Spa, Easter Brunch 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 933.3191
Sage Fine Food & Provisions at Cornerstone Sonoma, 935.1681
Santé Restaurant, Brunch 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., 938.9000
Schellville Grill, Open for Brunch, Lunch and Dinner, 707-996-5151
Sonoma Cheese Factory on the Plaza, 996.1931
Sunflower Caffé on the Plaza, 996.6645
Swiss Hotel, Lunch and Dinner, 938.2884
Up & Down the Valley
organization events
The Epicurean Connection nonprofit first Thursday of the month, April 1 sales will benefit “Team Sonoma,” featuring James Fanucchi and family and the National Multiple Sclerosis Northern California Chapter. Stop by all day when 10 percent of daily sales go to benefit the nonprofit in addition to the complimentary reception from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. 18812 Sonoma Highway, Suite C, Sonoma, 935.7960, sheanadavis.com
Green Drinks Sonoma – Thursday, April 1, 6 p.m.
Last week’s column had the wrong date. The group meets tonight with a screening of “Escape from Affluenza,” showing how consumption can be reduced and lives be simplified. Bring your own popcorn for the 56-minute film and stay for networking. Lobby Bar at The Lodge at Sonoma, 1325 Broadway, Sonoma. Contact Michele at 249.3748.
Soroptimist Easter Egg Hunt – Saturday, April 3, 10 a.m. to 11 a.m.
The annual Soroptimist International Sonoma Valley Easter Egg Hunt will be at the north end of the Plaza. The Easter Bunny will greet children prior to the hunt. Ages 2 and up, children should bring their own baskets and be accompanied by an adult. Sonoma Plaza. Contact: 996.1033.
Easter Sunrise Mass at Cline Cellars – Sunday, April 4, 6:20 a.m. to 7 a.m.
Open to the public. No reservations required. Coffee and pastries served after the service. Cline Cellars 24737 Arnold Drive. Contact: 940.4030
Junipero & Co and The Epicurean Connection present “Hand-Made Spring Cheeses and Champagne.” – Sunday, April 11, 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. Sheana Davis will demonstrate the art of hand-made cheese making including fresh chevre and crème fraîche. Cost $10. 115 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 939.9065, juniperoandco.com
Rancho Gordo and Bram present Great Women of the Kitchen Series. Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo in Napa features old-fashioned, heirloom varieties of beans, corn, and legumes to our cuisine and Bram is the earthen cookware store on the Sonoma Plaza. Together, they are providing a change to meet cookbook authors, sample their cuisines and have them sign their books at the Rancho Gordo store in Napa.
Sunday, April 11, 3:30 p.m. to 5 p.m., enjoy Deborah Madison, author of “Local Flavors,” “Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone,” and her new book, “Seasonal Fruit Desserts: from Orchard, Farm, and Market.” Local Sonoma resident Paula Wolfert, author of “Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking” will be at the store on Saturday, April 24 from 3:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. and Judy Witts-Francini, author of “Secrets from My Tuscan Kitchen” will share her tips on Tuscan cooking, clay pots and beans on Saturday May 1 from 3:30 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Clay cookware from Bram will be available at all events. All dates are at Rancho Gordo, 1924 Yajome St., Napa, 259.1935, ranchogordo.com. Bram is located at 493 First St. W., Sonoma 935.3717, bramcookware.com
The Big Read is a Sonoma County initiative to restore reading to the center of American culture and includes a wide range of activities and book-related projects using Mark Twain’s classic novel, “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.” Sonoma County Regional Parks joins the project this year with activities throughout the county including river and campfire events. Visit bigreadsonoma.com for a listing of all events or contact Melissa Kelley at mkelley@sonic.net or 537.8783. The Big Read will be at the Sonoma Tuesday Farmers Market on April 13 and April 20 reading from “Tom Sawyer.”
Worthy of Mention
events outside the Valley
Alexis Koefoed, owner of Soul Food Farm of Vacaville has invited Carole Morison the whistle-blower in the Academy-Award nominated documentary Food, Inc. to participate in a week of public events in the Bay Area. Among the events are the following:
Inside the Hen House, Tuesday, April 20, 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., a panel discussion introduced by Michael Pollan, author of “In Defense of Food. San Francisco Ferry Building $5 Reservations at brownpapertickets.com/event/103035
Earth Day, April 22, 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., Benecia High School Hayley Horn Auditorium, 1101 Military West Road, Benecia. Open to the public
Contact heidi@heidifuller.com or 415.302.1130 for additional events and information
Eating with the Seasons
In search of local, seasonal, and sustainable food
The Tuesday night Farmers Market begins next Tuesday, April 6 and there will be a host of new vendors for the evening on the Plaza. Among the new vendors is certified grower Adam Mariani, who is on Napa Road and will be bringing local fruits and vegetables. Other vendors who have been at the Friday market and will now also be coming Tuesdays include Sam Kim with mushrooms, M&CP Farms with olive products, Sheana Davis with Dèlice de la Vallèe and ravioli, and John Robson, Buchanan Hollow Nut Farm with nuts. Eve the egg lady will be at Tuesday’s market.
New processed vendors at Tuesday’s market include Mommy’s Tammys with Mediterranean salads and lamb sandwiches, Olive & Vine with baked goods, Steve Phillips with jambalaya and gumbo, and Dominic Sammar with gyros.
New vendors at Friday’s market include Steve Quintana with his hot dog cart, Jim Montez with Belgian waffles, and D&S Robbins with olive oil. At both markets will be Mike Zakowski with wood-fired breads. There are many other vendors who appear at the markets when their produce is ripe and they will be showcased as they come to the market. Watch this site for new weekly offerings or check online at Epi’s Web site – pattiwilliams.com – for a complete weekly listing.
Mayor Steve Barbose will cut a ribbon to open the 2010 Farmers Market season in the Sonoma Plaza and there will be Scottish bagpipes and dancing.
Vendors at both markets:
Steve Smith from Mt. Moriah Farms has pink lady and gala apples and apple juice.
Java Wagon piloted by Erica has coffee and smoothies on Tuesday, and includes baked goods on Friday.
Samuel Kim of Bohemian Well-Being Town Farm in Occidental brings wild-crafted and cultivated mushrooms including cultivated shitake, enoki, oyster, and trumpet mushrooms.
Oak Hill Farm currently has salad mix, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, green garlic, leeks, rutabaga, red cabbage, kale, red mustard, chicories, escarole, carrots, burdock, beets, parsnips, shallots, and chard. In addition, kabocha and spaghetti winter squash are available as well as lots of spring flowers.
Julia Ortiz with Ortiz Brothers has salad mix, red and green cabbage, radishes, parsley, mint, chard, carrots as well as scallions, leeks, cauliflower, young broccoli, romaine as well as red and green leaf lettuces, carrots, arugula, and spinach.
Hector Alvarez of Hector’s Honey has honey products including fresh bee pollen and candles, as well as winter squash, garlic, eggs, dried persimmons, tomatillos, and dried peppers, including Anaheim, chili de Diablo, Thai, and cayenne.
Gary Peter of Spring Hill Cheese Company brings cheese, sweet creamery butter and their Petaluma Creamery brand of bulk sustainably-grown cheeses which are also available at Whole Foods Market.
Vivo Vinegars award-winning vinegars include such wine favorites as syrah, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, merlot and a limited edition pinot noir.
Sheana Davis of The Epicurean Connection will have her signature Dèlice de la Vallèe cheese in flavors of Meyer lemon and fava bean blossom and marigold petals with Sonoma honey, Dèlice “Mac and cheese,” and ravioli with Meyer lemon and asparagus.
Primavera Tamales has salsa, chips, and tamales in various flavors, including chicken, pork, pumpkin, black bean, green chili, mushroom and spinach and white corn and zucchini.
The Hummus Guy, Mohammed Cherif, has couscous salad, spicy harissa, dolmas, organic baked tofu, falafel, pita, spanakopeta, pita chips and kalamata olives.
Buchanan Hollow Nut Company has pecans, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, and chocolate-covered raisins.
M&CP Farms is at the market with all things olives. Tony Howe provides samples of a variety of olive products.
Other returning vendors who will be at this Tuesday’s market include Shelly Arrowsmith, Ed Miller and Anne of Twin Peaks, Fruit Factory, and Triple T Ranch.
Friday-only vendors:
Jacqueline Aubin is at the market with local, fresh eggs.
Jane Bell, The Handmade Pantry, has bread kits, handmade granola, herb and spice mixes, and rice entrees. See handmadepantry.com for more information.
Charlie Sellers of Bodega Bay Leaf Co. is a weekly standard at the market with his succulent and drought-tolerant plant collection.
Linda Carniglia of Mini Farm Products has fresh mini greens including wheat grass, sunflower greens, pea greens, buckwheat salad and birdie greens. Carniglia is selling calendula and borage plants in 4-inch containers, helpful in attracting bees. Her mini-salad mix is a great raw treat in place of salad greens.
McClelland’s Dairy of Petaluma has organic dairy products including unsalted butter in one-pound blocks.
Debbie Stevens of Worm Endings Unlimited has worm castings and vermicompost, and worm tea, all helpful in improving the quality of the soil in the garden.
Rebecca Bozzelli of the Sonoma Garden Park has eggs available from NixChix and lots of greens. 19996 Seventh St. E., Sonoma, sonomaecologycenter.org.
End Notes – Inspirational Quote of the Week
“Eating with the fullest pleasure – pleasure, that is, that does not depend on ignorance – is perhaps the profoundest enactment of our connection with the world. In this pleasure we experience and celebrate our dependence and our gratitude, for we are living from mystery, from creatures we did not make and powers we cannot comprehend.” Wendell Berry, American poet, academic, cultural and economic critic, and farmer
Let us be ever mindful of our food, our wine, our community and the mystery of life as we make ourselves aware of our place in the world.
I remain, yours truly, Epi Curious, your entrée to the Spirit of Sonoma in the best of food, wine and events in the Valley of the Moon.
Patti can be reached directly at epi@pattiwilliams.com. Follow Epi’s trails at pattiwilliams.com.
